if you do overfill , especially if you keep doing it , it builds a lot of pressure that might not otherwise have happened — until the cap vents at rated psi . Especially after you shut it off , latent heat in heads may boil locally at exhaust valve . Its up near 240 there at normal pressure cap psi ( a function of that psi obviously ) But if a nice big air space the air compresses in air volume , pressure cannot rise enough to lift cap . Like expansion tank on your home heat. In some ways better than catch bottle , they go to max pressure every time , spits out st max psi then draws back in , cycling all the hoses etc to 15+ psi in a modern car . That is all about smaller radiators , fewer rows running hotter to throw away same btu . Not a favor they did you!
Two anecdotes , bro in law, 2013 jeep hemi , new water pump , radiator , thermostat etc catch can design . Constantly overheating , 3000$ dealer dance over a year + Still did it Fed up . I have the car . Ed and I pressure tested ( thinking head gasket) to 18 psi . Ed saw a tiny jet of water coming out of a 1/2” plastic elbow where water goes into heater core under hood . Had a longitudinal crack from new , at mold line , down one side . We cut off the elbow with hack saw put hose on straight, fixed! So every time he stopped pressure went up , this spit out then closed again . After a month overheat. Due to catch can design cycling . #two : 67 Dart slant six on overnight ferry to Canada vacation , waiting in line to board , my “rebuilt “ radiator split at solder seam around tank ( be careful of this failure , bozo dirty solder workmanship under pretty black paint ) V8 radiator I put in , Puking out my coolant, hot day , Steam out of hood in the line i loosened cap slowed to trickle. 2000 mile trip no issue no rad pressure . At all Hmmm Temp fine
Did same thing in 1965 on 57 D500 dodge 325 , blown head gasket , made it thru winter , no $ to fix. Steam re condenses in that air space It’s a good thing!!!!! On May 12, 2025, at 10:50 AM, dplotkin@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx wrote:
Perhaps I thought insufficiently about James problem. I assumed his rad level had been constant until recently which would cause me to think he is loosing coolant from a leak.
I would still pressure test the system to be sure. Costs nothing and will deliver peace of mind.
As mentioned by others all cars without expansion tanks must be allowed to find their own comfortable level. In my experience after any work done involving draining and refilling a cooling system it may take half a dozen or more long runs before the car is happy with its fill, all of it dependent on ambient temps.
This cycle is prolonged by overfilling each time she spits. A level just over the tubes would bother me, but its likely not the original rad the car came with, could have something to do with it.
Danny Plotkin
-----Original Message----- From: "Hank Hallowell" <Hank@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Sent: Monday, May 12, 2025 10:06am To: "HAAG ROBERT" <scooter465@xxxxxxx> Cc: "Taylor Nick" <nicksgaragesd@xxxxxxxxx>, "Douglas James" <jdd@xxxxxxxxxx>, "Chrysler Club International" <chrysler-300-club-international@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx> Subject: Re: {Chrysler 300} coolant level down
I want to chime in and completely concur with the self leveling comment made by Bob.
I have a bunch of these. Every winter I go thru check all of the fluid levels/change fluids/air pressure etc… every spring they all spit out what they don’t need - so I learned years ago- don’t sweat it as long as tubes are covered & the temp gauge is reading Ok. And even then every once in a while I drag out my old school meat thermometer and double check the temperature gauge if I’m suspicious.
Hank
On May 12, 2025, at 8:02 AM, ROBERT HAAG <scooter465@xxxxxxx> wrote:
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