check volts both ends of resistor during crank analog meter is best . number does not matter just you have volts 8-12 then check wire between coil and distributor , during crank , you should see V move up and down ( why analog meter) ( assumes you had volts at R ) Stays down , = short in distributor , stays Up points are not closing or broken wire inside . Dual point wiring is tight sometimes covering falls off . never put a ball of tape on it, it has to move None of this is in dash wiring except ignition switch , if no volts on R , during crank, issue not on engine Wire off ? also check yellow wire and others at start relay , that is near where you worked Chrysler shuts down other loads on ign at crank / start , by various ways — then powers coil and R (only ) as you crank . one way is via extra wire on ignition switch hot during crank; other way is a contact on start relay goes live , both go to coil end of R i do not know which is in your car , but logic of this can fool you hope this helps j On May 27, 2025, at 4:52 PM, Bob Podstawski <cadillacbob88@xxxxxxxxx> wrote: -- For archives go to http://www.forwardlook.net/300-archive/search.htm#querylang --- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Chrysler 300 Club International" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to chrysler-300-club-international+unsubscribe@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx. To view this discussion visit https://groups.google.com/d/msgid/chrysler-300-club-international/F7570A5C-56E2-485F-9576-E697F28895A4%40gradyresearch.com. |
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