|
|
Elite Veteran
Posts: 642
  
Location: Falcon, CO | Hi All,
I'm planning to install a carburetor with an electric choke. Where on my 58 Belvedere engine harness should I splice the choke power wire to?
Thanks, |
|
| |
|
Expert 5K+
Posts: 7432
 
Location: northern germany | Tony - 2024-05-02 7:05 PM
Hi All,
I'm planning to install a carburetor with an electric choke. Where on my 58 Belvedere engine harness should I splice the choke power wire to?
Thanks,
Ballast terminal, ignition lock side (12V/ign1) |
|
| |
|
Elite Veteran
Posts: 642
Location: Falcon, CO | Thanks |
|
| |
|
Expert
Posts: 3780
Location: NorCal |
I, too, have always used the hot wire to the ballast but a discussion on another forum got me to thinking (uh-oh)...the heater in the electric choke housing draws current constantly from the ignition circuit and could affect the final coil voltage, so some have gone to installing a temperature sensor that acts as the ground for the choke circuit. The sensor shuts off the ground after a certain temperature is reached and eliminates the parasitic draw.
Sounds like a good idea but I haven't been able to find that sensor anywhere but in a kit.
 (Choke Thermostat.PNG)
Attachments
----------------
 Choke Thermostat.PNG (149KB - 10 downloads)
|
|
| |
|
Expert 5K+
Posts: 7432
Location: northern germany | 57chizler - 2024-05-05 6:26 PM
I, too, have always used the hot wire to the ballast but a discussion on another forum got me to thinking (uh-oh)...the heater in the electric choke housing draws current constantly from the ignition circuit and could affect the final coil voltage, so some have gone to installing a temperature sensor that acts as the ground for the choke circuit. The sensor shuts off the ground after a certain temperature is reached and eliminates the parasitic draw.
Sounds like a good idea but I haven't been able to find that sensor anywhere but in a kit.
Of course I considered and checked that. No change in current at the coil, that constant drawing however, even if its miniscule, made me go back to the divorced factory style mechanical choke. That cut off^ is a nice thing. |
|
| |
|
Expert 5K+
Posts: 9924
Location: Lower Mainland BC | .
Previously, in a related but old thread I said (NOTE: the NAPA link is still good - I just checked):
BTW: My Echlin relay is powered directly from the battery *BUT* the trigger signal to activate the relay (and heat the choke coil) comes from the switched 12V signal from the ignition switch to the coil, probably via the horn relay.
http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=75793&...
http://www.forwardlook.net/forums/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=75311&...
56D500boy - 2021-01-19 7:44 AM
.
My car came to me already equipped with an Echlin electric choke comprised of an electrical relay, the choke activation element (a plate with an electrically heated bi-metal spring ) and the wiring, as shown below. As Sid suggests, it is on as long as the ignition key is in the RUN position (IGN on the switch ). I haven't had a problem with it. I doubt that it is sucking very many amps.
They are available from NAPA: https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CRB21663
Edited by 56D500boy 2024-05-06 3:46 AM
|
|
| |
|
Expert 5K+
Posts: 9703
Location: So. Cal | The problem I had with electric chokes was that the temperature of the choke was somewhat isolated from the temperature of the engine. As a result, after warming up the engine, and doing a quick stop, I come back out and the engine is still warm, but the choke has cooled off, which results in a flooding situation. The problem gets even worse if you use a non-conductive spacer between the carb and intake to prevent issues with ethanol in the fuel.
Mopar engineers were smart and installed the electric choke inside the intake manifold during the '70's, making it much less problematic. For these reasons, I avoid the typical carb-mounted electric choke and just use the manifold installed chokes. Doing this on the dual carbed slant 6 engine in my '61 Lancer was much more challenging, but I did make it sort-of work. But the next time I have to work on that setup, it's getting converted to fuel injection.
In terms of current draw on your ignition lead, you just need to make sure that the wiring is in good shape and there are no significant resistances from that wire to your battery. If so, fix it and then you'll be fine. Installing a 14 gauge wire on that system would be a good idea as well, especially for higher output coils. But most stock systems won't have an issue with it as long as there are no connection issues at the bulkhead or switch. |
|
| |
|
Veteran
Posts: 144
Location: Denver, Colorado, USA | Tony, you don't want any loads tied into the ignition system from the "run" terminal of the ignition switch to the distributor other than ignition components. That circuit is designed to be dedicated to the ignition system only, for good reason. The next thing many people use is the accessories terminal of the ignition switch (or tap into an accessories wire), but the issue is that the choke spring begins warming as soon as the ignition switch set to accessories or run regardless of if the engine is running, leading to the choke opening prematurely if the switch is left on for accessories with the engine off. To keep out of the ignition circuit, to protect the choke circuit with a fuse, and to avoid powering the choke when the engine is off, I wire electric chokes via GM's design.
Here are the quick details: Place an oil-pressure switch PS-64 into an 1/8 NPT oil pressure port (you may need to tee off of the oil-pressure gauge port depending on how many available ports your engine has). Run a 14-gauge wire from the output terminal of an internally regulated alternator or the output side of the regulator for generators and externally regulated alternators through a quality waterproof 15A ATO in-line fuse to the "I" terminal on the oil-pressure switch. An alternative power source is to run a 14-gauge wire from the accessories terminal or battery terminal on the ignition switch, through a 15A in-line fuse under the dash, to the "I" terminal of the oil-pressure switch. Run a 14-gauge wire from the "P" terminal of the oil-pressure switch to the choke. The "S" terminal on the switch isn't used in this configuration. Wired in this method, the entire choke circuit is protected by the 15A fuse directly off the 12V power source, and the switch remains open when there is no oil pressure to where the choke will not receive current. Only after the engine fires, oil pressure closes the switch and the choke is energized. |
|
| |
Electric choke power tie in?
